feldmanlarry

Today I saw most of the typical tourist sites of Venice. I struggle with whether to post some of these typical scenes or whether to focus on the more unique things I saw and felt. It seems like my unique stuff is more interesting but let me know if you have any thoughts about this.

I was blown away more by the little alleyways than by the canals and bridges. Probably that’s because I had heard a lot about the canals and bridges and had very little idea about the narrow streets (really alleyways) with great names. My maps programs would give me directions to turn left at something like “Calle Gritti o del Campaniel” and maybe it would turn out to be a 5 foot wide hole in the wall. At first, I assumed it was a mistake but it always turned out to be the right turn. It was new for me to have the route taken to be not wide enough to write its name on the ground.

The highlight of the day for me was the opera I heard in the evening. It took place at a palace on the Grand Canal. They sat us in the large entry room. There were maybe 80 seats on one side and the performers were on the other side. There were only 4 musicians and 4 singers so it was not the full opera.

I recorded PBS’s Metropolitan Opera presentation of Rossini’s Barber of Seville years ago and probably watched it 15-20 times. For me to hear this same opera in Venice was a real treat. I knew the pieces and the story and could follow along with the Italian libretto in the booklet, which had the English translation. During the overture, a maid was dusting the room to the time of the music. She came through the audience and actually dusted my bald head!

After the first scene, they had an intermission and treated us to wine or my favorite, prosecco. They then actually moved the audience to a smaller salon for the next part. During this part, Bartolo sat on the lap of the person sitting next to me while singing. I gave him an encouraging pat on the back and while he was still singing he got up and tapped me on the head a couple of times. There must be something about my bald head that attracts people. They moved us to the bedroom for the last part.

(As I’m writing this, I’m listening to the Barber of Seville and the most famous aria is on, called “Largo al Factotum”. If you don’t like this piece you’ll probably never like anything in opera.)

I have to tell a story related to these travels only by my bald head. When I was in Minneapolis in the 1990’s, I saw a sign for Muhammed Ali pictures. It turned out Muhammed Ali just happened to be there on a book tour and instead of signing books, which was difficult for him, they were taking pictures with him that they then mailed to us. While waiting in line, I planned a long speech to say for probably the most famous athlete of all time. When it was my turn, he took one look at my bald head, gave a big smile and rubbed my head. That was the end of it. No time for my speech but what he did was much better than any speech I could have come up with.

Wandering around there were gems all over the place such as this amazing tower that normally you can climb but was under construction.

I ran into a museum that had created models of several of Leonardo da Vinci’s inventions. I sometimes wonder if he time travelled back from today.

In Venice, it’s required to ride a gondola with a singing gondolier. It cost 80 euros ($86) for 30 minutes, which seemed expensive for one person and also a little creepy. A couple the same age as my son were negotiating a cheaper price and they got it down to 60 euros and I asked if they’d like me to come along and pay my share. They were glad to save the money so it only cost me 20 euro. It was definitely worth it.

The problem I’m having talking about Venice is that all the classic things to do are truly worthwhile and amazing so it’s hard to say something new. So here are unapologetic pictures of my gondola ride.

On the way back from the opera, I thought about buying this outfit in the Louis Vutton window for Margaret to have something to lie around the house in. The dress cost 2200 euro ($2378), the footwear was a mere 1350 euro ($1459), and the purse was 2980 euro ($3221) for a total of $7058. Maybe I should get two sets for when one’s in the wash.

A thrill for me is that my apartment was just 3 minutes from where Mozart stayed in 1771 when he was 15 years old. He came for the world famous carnival. I was in my French village when I was 15. I stared dreaming about my 15 year old self time traveling to 1771 Venice and spending the carnival hanging out with Mozart.  He was a wild partier and I’m sure I wouldn’t have been able to keep up with him for more than a couple of minutes.

Unfortunately, there was no Mozart for me to hang out with or anyone else for that matter. For some reason, being alone was bothering me a little in Venice, much more so than anywhere else. Something about the magic of Venice.