I was sad to be leaving Cyprus but excited about the next phase of the trip to Israel. Anytime you move from one phase of your life to another there are always those two high stress feelings, leaving the familiar part behind and also meeting the unknown. Fortunately, I was to have a transition day of seeing a fairly long list of sights in Cyprus over 8 hours on the way to the airport. A straight drive to the airport is just 45 minutes. Irini found a taxi driver, Stegos, to take me for 120 Euros or about $160. When he left me off, his meter showed about 180 Euros so it was a good deal. I also gave him 65 Cypriot Pounds, which were obsolete and could only be cashed at the National Bank in Nicosia. Mary Beth had given them to me to give away if I couldn’t cash them. They are worth over $120 if they can be cashed. He was going to try and if not, he was going to keep them as souvenirs.
Stegos was an interesting guy, divorced twice, once to a Romanian bride who I think was arranged for him to go to Romania and get. His explanation of his blended family got too confusing to me to fully get straight. He spoke decent English that he learned from being a taxi driver, not from his 8th grade education. He and I became friends that day and I’ll miss him.
The first place we went to was called Amathounta, an archaeological site going back to the 11th century BCE. I’m starting to worry about my encounter with Aphrodite a couple of days ago. She had a lot to do with this site. As it says in the second column of the picture on the left, Aphrodite punished women who denied her divinity by forcing them into prostitution and changing them into stone figures (seems like stone figures would not be very effective prostitutes for most customers). She also turned men into furious bulls who sacrificed strangers at the city. My message to her if she can hear me is “Please forgive me, Aphrodite!” If she can’t hear me, never mind.
We then went to a Neolithic archaeological site from 7000-5500 BCE called Tenta. At first I thought the name came from the tent-like structure designed to protect it (built in 1995) but that’s just a dumb thought on my part, sorry for sharing it with you. I wonder what people 9000 years from now will be saying about us.
We then went to two villages way up in the mountains called Pano Lefkara (high Lefkara) and Kato Lefkara (low) to a shop where they sold lace and silver jewelry. They told me that every woman loves jewelry and lace. Margaret – in spite of the fact that I’ve never seen you wear jewelry or express any need for lace, as a woman you must obey. I had a nice talk with the grandmother at the shop who lived in Queens in NYC for 30 years. The people did not give me a hard sell and it was fun to see this part of the island.
I could keep track of how long each stop was by how many cigarettes Stegos smoked. As soon as we got out of the car, the cigarette ritual began. He told me how many hours he worked a week, I don’t remember now, but I wonder how many of those hours went to the tobacco industry. He was very careful not to smoke near the car though and “let he who is without sin cast the first stone” or whatever the quote is.
Next was the capital city of Nicosia, which they advertise as the only divided capital city in the world. We checked out a couple of museums – the national archaeological museum and a Cypriot historical museum called “Pili Amochostou”. We also went to the museum for the founder of the nation, Archbishop Macharios. After Stegos finished a cigarette at each place he joined me since he had never been in these places himself. Next was a great view of the area from the top floor of an office building but I was itching to get to the Turkish side.
Apparently, only in the past few years has the border between the independent Greek-speaking country of Cyprus and the Turkish area of Cyprus been opened for easy travel. Stegos was able to enter with just his ID card and they gave me a quick visa on a separate sheet of paper. This was a particular thrill for me, it seemed like one of the more obscure places in Europe. We walked around through the Turkish shops and saw the Selimiye mosque. I bought some pistachio halvah from Turkey, which is the most famous halvah (not that most people know what halvah is). I used to get halvah in Montreal and it’s great stuff. I planned to bring it home and share it with people but I’m eating some right now as I write this in Israel. Sorry.
We then went to Larnaka, which is the third biggest city and saw another mosque and were too late to get into the supposedly beautiful Lazarus Monastery. Stegos and I had a farewell coffee in the square facing the Monastery then he drove me to the airport around 8 PM. I was sad once again to be leaving Cyprus. It’s a wonderful place to live or visit.
With my business class ticket, I was able to wait in a very nice upscale lounge. While standing in line for the flight, I casually mentioned something to the woman behind me about waiting and she gave me an unforgettable story. She was an Israeli who went to Cairo for a teachers’ conference. The uprising started as soon as she got there and they were stuck in the hotel, at one point while potential looters were yelling outside. The hotel staff protected the hotel with knives and anything they could find. Finally, a bus took them to the airport where she stood in line from 8:30 AM to 6:30. The airplane had extra small seats and didn’t take off for 2 hours. I felt like a real idiot mentioning waiting in line a few minutes. Please remind me never to complain about anything ever again.




















